Kits for Rhombique

When making the samples for my Rhombique pattern, I used my own organic cotton in solid and multicolour. It would be a shame not to also offer you kits!

To celebrate the launch of Rhombique, I have a special time-limited offer for you: until 17 March 2021 only, when you purchase the Rhombique pattern and a Rhombique kit at the same time, the pattern is yours for free!

To take advantage of this offer, simply put the Rhombique pattern and the Rhombique kit of your choice in your cart – the price of the pattern will automatically be deducted from your total before payment.

Please note that this is a special offer, valid only until 17 March 2021 and within the limits of available stock.

You can find the kits for the smaller bags via this link, and the ones for the larger bags via this one.

To line my bags, I used the beautiful fabrics from l’Éléphant Zebré.

New pattern: Rhombique

I’m happy and proud to introduce Rhombique, my brand new pattern for drawstring bags in mosaic crochet! Use this wonderful technique to draw diamonds with your hook!

The pattern is written for two sizes. The smaller bag is approximately 18 cm/7″ across and 34 cm/13.5″ tall. The larger bag is approximately 24 cm/9.5″ across and 45 cm/17.75″ tall.

If you are new to mosaic crochet, the pattern includes several links to detailed tutorials to help you understand the technique. Since this is one-row mosaic crochet, I have included two charts: a “universal” one and an “adapted” one, where the latter indicates exactly where to place your dc’s.

Click over to the shop to learn everything about the Rhombique pattern!

How to make a cowl in any yarn, with any stitch pattern!

Several years ago I made a tutorial on how to design your own crocheted cowl.

This weekend, a crocheter came across the “pattern” on Raverly, but couldn’t access it. My website has been updated since, and the link was broken.

The link is now fixed, and the tutorial is updated (the pictures had been lost, too…).

This new-again tutorial is a mini-course on how to design a simple pattern, and how to adapt a stitch pattern worked flat to working in the round!

Check it out here!

A winter light

A quick project to light up the winter darkness – a candle holder dressed up in crochet.

If using a real candle, please make sure that the flame does not, under any circumstances, come into contact with the crocheted cover. If in doubt, use a LED candle. We don’t want 2020 to end in a house fire!

For the candle holder, I used a Godis glass from IKEA (size 8 oz). You could use any glass with a straightish shape, or a small jar.

The Godis glass measures approx 6.5 cm (2.5″) across at the bottom and 8 cm (slightly more than 3″) at the top. It is 9.5 cm (3.75″) high. I give instructions below on how to adapt the bottom of your project to the glass used.

I used my own fingering weight merino yarn (approx 10 – 15 g) and a 2.5 mm (between a US B-1 and C-2) hook.

Stitches used:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
dc blo = double crochet in the back loop only
tr = treble

This pattern uses US terminology

Bottom:

Ch 4, close to a ring with 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook.

NB: All rounds in the bottom close with a sl st in the first dc in the round.

Round 1: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 12 dc in ring. Close this round, and all rounds of the bottom with a sl st in the first dc in round.

Round 2: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 2 dc in each dc. There are 24 dc.

Round 3: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc, * 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * to end of round. There are 36 dc. [1 st between increases]

Round 4: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc; repeat from * to end of round. There are 48 dc. [2 sts between increases]

Measure the bottom by placing it on the bottom of the glass or jar used. If your bottom is about the same size, it’s perfect. It shouldn’t be significantly larger or smaller. If needed, you can remove or add a round of dc, or adjust the height of the stitches in the last round (using hdc or tr). The number of stitches in the last round must be a multiple of 6.

Sides:

From this point on, we are going to continue working in the round, without increases, to create a tube which will be the visible part of our crochet-covered candle holder. Depending on the size of your glass and the gauge of previous rounds, the first round of this tube might straddle the edge of the bottom, or even end up under the glass.

Round 1: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc blo in each st. Close the round with a sl st in the first dc blo in round.

Round 2: Ch 4 (count as 1 dc + 1 ch), skip first and second dc, 1 dc in next dc, * ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next dc; repeat from * until 1 st remains at the end of round, ch 1. Close the round with a sl st in the 3rd ch at the beg of round.

Round 3: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc in the 3rd ch at the beg of previous round (the same st as the one where you made the sl st to close the previous round), 1 dc in ch-1 sp, * 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to end of round. Close the round with a sl st in first dc in round.

Round 4: Ch 3 (do not count as a st), 2 tr in first st in previous round (the same st as the one where you made the sl st to close the previous round), * skip 2 sts, 3 tr in next st; repeat from * until 2 sts remain at end of round, 1 tr in first dc in previous round. Close the round with a sl st in first tr in round.

Round 5: Ch 5 (count as 1 tr + 1 ch), 1 tr in first st in previous round (the same st as the one where you made the sl st to close the previous round), * skip 2 sts, [1 tr, ch 1, 1 tr] in next st; repeat from * until 2 sts remain at end of round. Close the round with a sl st in 4th ch at the beg of round.

Round 6: 1 sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3 (do not count as a st), 2 tr in same ch sp, 3 tr in each ch sp to end of round, 1 tr in first ch sp. Close the round with a sl st in first tr in round.

Round 7: As round 5

Round 8: Ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc in 4th ch at the beg of previous round (the same st as the one where you made the sl st to close the previous round), 1 dc in 1-ch sp, * 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc in next 1-ch sp; repeat from * until 1 st remains at the end of round, 1 dc in last st. Close the round with a sl st in first dc in round.

Round 9: As round 2.

Round 10: As round 3.

Round 11: Ch 1 (do not count as a st), 1 sc in first st in previous round (the same st as the one where you made the sl st to close the previous round), [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in next st, * 1 sc in next st, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc] in next st; repeat from * to end of round. Close the round with a sl st in first sc in round.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Circaetus, crochet shawl

I’m very happy to introduce my new design: the shawl Circaetus!

This pattern was inspired by a series of tutorials on the work in one loop only, published this spring in my newsletter. Circaetus is worked almost entirely in the front loop only.

Not only does this add a lovely, subtle texture, but it also makes for a very light and drapey fabric.

Warmth and cozyness are provided by the yarn chosen, Balayage, in baby alpaca and merino.

Head over to the shop to find out more about Circaetus!